The first thing to understand is knowing what sealing your tops really is versus the common misconceptions.

True:

• Sealing is a chemical process. But, all you are doing is putting on a silicone-water type solution which soaks into your stone’s pores. Then, the water dries and leaves the silicone behind, clogging the pores to help prevent staining and absorption or liquids.
• It will help make the stone feel noticeably smoother because of the filling of the pores.
• The main purpose of sealer is to prevent staining.

Misconception:

• It is not an epoxy coating, or an expensive and time-consuming clear sealer that goes on the stone.
• It will not make it shiny or bring out color, for the most part. It will not put a polish on your granite. Granite is polished by different grits of polishing pads. Think sandpaper for wood. So the stone is already as smooth as it can be.

Know that as a general rule lighter color stones are more susceptible to staining than darker ones. Lighter color stones are usually more porous (and also less heavy as a result) than darker colors, leaving them more prone to staining. So, if you have a lighter stone you should be a little more careful with spills.

The Process:

Take everything off of your tops.

1. Clean your tops thoroughly using granite cleaner. We use stone cleaner from SCI (Stone Care International) but you can use anything that says it is for use on natural Stone, Granite, or Marble. You can purchase this at Home Depot or Lowe’s, or any hardware store. Clean the tops as your would a glass mirror using the product.
2. For any gook that is on your top, use a flat razor blade. Hold it at a 45 deg. angle and make short movements to scrape off the gook. Don’t worry: this won’t scratch your countertop. Do NOT do this on marble! It will scratch. Only granite is safe for this.
3. Spray on your sealer heavily and wipe it in using a cloth as if you were waxing a car. We recommend doing this 2-3 times. If the stone is very porous you will actually see how quickly it gets absorbed into the stone. You will also notice it tends to dry quicker at the edges of the stone.
4. Give it 30 minutes to fully dry, then spray on your cleaner again to take off the excess that did not soak in, wiping with a dry cloth or paper towel. That’s it! You’re done!

At Washington Marble we recommend doing this once to twice a year, but there is no harm in doing it as often as you like. Any questions don’t hesitate to email us!

What is the point of putting steel rods into your stone countertops? Steel rods help add strength and rigidity to your stone. On a typical sink cutout, there is only 4” of stone in the front and maybe 3 1/2” or so of stone behind the faucet. These are weak points where the stone has a tendency to be weak and break. By adding the steel, we strengthen this area, both for transportation to your home, and added strength after it gets installed. For unusual overhangs, it helps add strength and prevent breakage. Steel rods also prevent the stone from falling apart in the event of a break, which is useful when you are trying to move a piece.

How do we do put in the steel? We buy 10ft long 3/8” steel rods by the bundle. First, we cut the rods to a shorter length to fit the area where it needs to go. Then, we flip the granite over and use a bridge saw to cut out a 1/2” wide x 3/8” deep slot for the rod to rest in. At Washington Marble & Granite we put a steel rod both in front and in back of the cutout. The more strength the better! We put in the steel rod, mix epoxy, and glue it in.

Voila! The strength of steel has been added to your countertop.

The Choices

At Washington Marble & Granite, a 4” granite or marble backsplash is what we recommend on a standard kitchen. It provides basic protection, it is pleasing to the eye, and it is proportional to the standard cabinet sizes. It is right amount of stone: not too much, not too little.

A full tile backsplash is also very popular. A properly designed tile splash will really add some flair to your kitchen. If you choose to go this route, make sure you pick a tile that compliments your countertops and your cabinet color. There are many tile patterns to consider, but try to keep it varied. Highlight areas like cooktops and sinks and pick a different pattern, such as this picture. Variety is the spice of life! One thing to consider, however, is grout. Tile backsplashes are very durable, but grout is not. A lighter color will get dirty over time, and the grout between the countertop and the tile will take a lot of abuse and break away after awhile. Which takes us to our next option…

A 2” granite (or marble) backsplash can act as a border to your tile backsplash. It is very proportionate and something we recommend highly here at Washington Marble. It is a more custom look, really brings out your countertop, and acts as better protection for your tile. We also thin the granite too 3/4” thick so it will better transition with the tile! We feel this is our most finished look you can achieve.

One final choice to consider is full-height backsplash. This is a very elegant and beautiful option. It really shows off your granite choice, and can completely change the feel of a kitchen. If you have a stone with lots of veining in it, you can even have the veins run from the countertop up the wall seamlessly! However, it is not for everyone: in some kitchens it is too overbearing. But for the right application, it is a truly beautiful addition to your kitchen.

These are just four of the most popular backsplash options you can choose. But the variety is unlimited! One other option that warrants mention is splash under the window sill. Often, customers find that their windowsill is too low for tile, or too high for full-height. In this case, they often put a slightly taller (5-7”) splash underneath it. This can also break up the monotony of a single-height 4” splash and add some variety.

Try planning using all the methods, or mix and match! And don’t forget to get creative! This is the most fun about designing your kitchen. You make it YOURS!